Most hose manufacturers recommend replacing hoses every four years. V-belts should be replaced every three years or 36,000 miles. The incidence of failure rises sharply after the fourth year for service for hoses and the third year for belts.
The lifespan of a typical serpentine belt is about five years or 50,000 miles. Serpentine belts are thinner and more flexible than V-belts. They run cooler and last longer, but cost twice as much to replace.
The hard part is convincing customers to change belts and hoses as preventative maintenance BEFORE THEY FAIL. Few people do, yet they could save themselves a lot on unnecessary grief and expense if they would.
Rubber hoses deteriorate with age. Tiny cracks develop in the rubber which eventually cause hoses to split, blister or leak. Oil contamination and atmospheric ozone can accelerate the process.
Engine vibration and motion can cause hoses to wear if they are too short or rub against other parts. This applies to fuel, vacuum and emission hoses as well as coolant hoses.
A visual inspection will often uncover bad hoses. Pinching hoses to check for age cracks, brittleness or mushiness can also help locate hoses that need to be changed. This pinching is to be done before the vehicle is started or warmed up.
However, neither technique will reveal all the hoses that might need replacing because hoses wear as much from the inside out as they do from the outside in. A hose that appears okay on the outside may actually be on the verge of failure because of internal deterioration.
With belts, heat and mileage are the main causes of wear. Every time a belt passes around a pulley, it bends and flexes. This produces heat which hardens the rubber over time. The wear process is greatly accelerated if the belt is loose and slips.
A belt may appear to be like new on the outside, yet be on the verge of failure because of weakened separated cords inside.
When a belt is replaced, it is important that the belt be properly tensioned. If too loose, it will slip and wear quickly. If too tight, it may damage internal cords as well as overload shaft bearing on accessories it drives.
Did you know that not only do we specialize in maintaining your everyday vehicle, we also have the ability to maintain your work vehicle? That's right! We are a full service fleet vehicle maintenance shop. Locally owned and operated in Santee, CA for over 40 years, The Dyno Shop has the best technicians and equipment to handle all your fleet vehicle's needs. Our ASE certified technicians are qualified and trained on a regular basis. We have the latest equipment and tools to provide fast and accurate diagnostics. Our 12 month/12,000 mile warranty gives piece of mind. We offer a free shuttle service (limited distance) and our staff is trained to serve you with the utmost of care. Don't just take our word for it, listen to what our fleet clients have to say:
“I have been bringing my trucks to you for 21 years. The Dyno Shop has always fixed my trucks and let me know of other things I need to watch for. That’s why I keep coming back. Thanks!” Rick A.
“The staff at The Dyno Shop did a fantastic job. They worked tirelessly and timely to find extremely hard to find parts. Along with the staff’s positive attitude, they had a professional expertise that made my experience with The Dyno Shop great!” Chris P.
If you or your employer are in need of a trustworthy fleet shop, look no further! Come give us a try and get $30 Off your first fleet service or repair! Give us a call today 619-562-3933, we hope to see you soon.
There are many symptoms that an out-of-tune vehicle will have. The first and most obvious will be gas mileage. If your average over 3 or more fill-ups has gone down 15% you are likely in need of a tune-up. Some other problems that may occur frequently are: fast idle when warm, stalling, low power, rough idle, knocking or pinging, hard starting, misfiring, hesitation, black exhaust, engine runs on when key is off (dieseling). If your vehicle is doing any of the above, you could be losing efficiency and performance!
Even if your vehicle does not exhibit any of the above listed problems we recommend a tune-up every 24 months or 24,000 miles. It is a good investment in preventative maintenance which pays off with having a reliable, smooth running vehicle.
Not sure if your vehicle is in need of a tune-up? We are here to answer any of your questions, give us a call at 619-562-3933 anytime Monday-Friday 7am to 5pm.
Why you should have your brake fluid serviced!!
There is an increasing awareness of the dangers of water and corrosion producing contaminates. Brake fluid contaminated by moisture dangerously lowers the boiling point of the fluid to the point that even under ordinary conditions your brakes could get hot enough to cause the brake fluid to boil, resulting in a low or no brake pedal. Moisture gets into the fluid because conventional brake fluid is hygroscopic (it has a magnetic attraction for moisture which it absorbs from the atmosphere). In the vehicle, moisture is absorbed through the brake master cylinder reservoir and permeable brake hoses. As a result, the moisture along with the steel line, rubber hoses, cast iron, aluminum and brake fluid temperature that can reach 450 to 500 degrees; causes an electrochemical reaction that makes the brake fluid so acidic that it can result in early failure to brake components. Brake fluid contamination has become such a concern for some major car manufacturers that they have added it to their required maintenance schedules. Failure to change your vehicle brake fluid can result in very costly repairs, if you have ABS type brakes, component failure can run into the thousands!!
Many drivers forget about the hard working, fuel squirting Injectors that are a vital part of the engine. Sooner or later the fuel injectors will get dirty and clogged, causing the vehicle to show signs of less efficient drive-ability. This is not a case of if, it's a case of when. It's just one of those unavoidable things that comes with the territory of driving modern day, fuel injected engines. Even though we cannot be absolutely sure there is a problem with the injector without physically removing them, there are some clogged fuel injector symptoms that we can notice.
Engine stutter or hesitation: without the proper air/fuel mixture, the combustion inside the chamber is hindered.
Performance Loss: If combustion is hindered, engine power suffers.
Increase Fuel Consumption: when fuel combustion efficiency is negatively affected, you will often burn more fuel to achieve the performance needed.
Engine Misfire: poor air/fuel mixture in the cylinders can cause incomplete combustion.
Rough idling/engine stalling: uneven supply of fuel during idling can cause RPM to fall too low and result in stalling.
Emissions Test Fail
There are many reasons to have a vehicles fuel injectors cleaned. The main circumstances include fuel contamination, having uneven cylinder fueling/spark plug wear, an unexplained cylinder misfire where you have spark, general maintenance 80k-100k miles, and for peace of mind at time of engine rebuild.
Fuel injector cleaning methods and results vary dramatically whether you choose to perform an on-car cleaning method, or an off-car fuel injector service.
First, let’s cover on-car cleaning methods, of which there are two. One method simply uses a pour-in additive to the fuel tank. The concentrated cleaner is mixed with fuel in the tank where it slowly makes its way through the fuel system, eventually passing through to the injectors.
The other on-car method uses a pressurized canister of injector cleaner. The canister is connected directly to the fuel rail. During this process, the fuel pump is disabled and the engine actually runs off of the cleaner, not the fuel in the tank. The chemical passes through the injectors, cleaning them in the process. The engine usually operates for about 5-10 minutes on the cleaner. This process is more time consuming than the pour-in method and requires special equipment and training.
There are many disadvantages to using the on-car cleaning method. The chemicals used are not very aggressive. The chemicals used have to be similar in nature to gasoline since the engine must run on the chemical alone. Because the cleaning is done on-the-car, the cleaner must not damage any of the other components on the vehicle that are sensitive to chemical contamination such as the oxygen sensor, catalytic converter, and others. Therefore, the cleaner used is a fairly mild detergent. Also, the technician really never knows what results the on-car cleaning accomplished.
Without being able to perform spray pattern tests, flow-rate test, and leak-down tests, the technician “hopes” the on-car method will increase vehicle performance.
For preventative maintenance, on-car cleaning usually won’t hurt. However, if an injector is restricted to the point that it is causing a driveability problem, don’t expect on-car cleaning to help. At this point, you’re most likely wasting time and money.
Off-car cleaning is a completely different process than either method used for on-car cleaning. Once the injectors are removed from the vehicle they are cleaned ultrasonically. The injectors are cleaned internally and externally while being pulsed at varying pulse widths and frequencies (RPM). The ultrasonic waves create cavitation bubbles in the cleaning fluid. When the microscopic bubbles touch a surface, they implode, creating forces in excess of 10,000 psi. These implosions, combined with the correct cleaning chemistry and the all important “back-flush” are what guarantee a thoroughly cleaned fuel injector.
Once the injectors are cleaned, their operation is verified using the injector flow bench. The flow bench can be used to examine the injector’s spray pattern, dynamic and static flow rate and to perform a leak test, none of which can be performed with the “on-car” method.
Once the injectors are cleaned and fully tested, critical components are replaced to complete the service. This includes any o-rings, seals, filters and pintle caps.
When we are done the injectors are as good as or better than rebuilt injectors that can be purchased at any auto parts store.
The Dyno Shop in Santee, CA is here to help you with any of your vehicle needs!!!
The weathermen are calling for 6 days of rain and a total of 7-8 inches here in San Diego County! Is your vehicle ready? First thing, check your windshield wipers. You are looking for tears and/or lack of rubber. To drive safely we need to be able to see; if your blades are worn out get them replaced ASAP. Next, tire pressure and condition. The colder weather is here to stay for a bit and with it comes decreasing air pressure. There is a sticker on the drivers door (in most vehicles) that will have the recommended tire pressure for cold and warm temperatures. Follow this sticker when checking your current tire pressure. The condition of your tires plays a big part in keeping your vehicle driving safely down the road. To check tread depth, do the penny test. Put a penny in the tread groove head down, facing you. If you can see all of Lincoln's head your tire tread depth is too warn and your tires should be replaced.
Slow down and leave room. Slowing down during wet weather driving can be critical to reducing's a cars chance of hydroplaning. It's also important to allow ample stopping distance between cars by increasing the following distance of the vehicle in front of them.
Even careful drivers can experience a skid. If you feel your vehicle begin to skid don't panic. Continue to look and steer in the direction you want to go and avoid slamming on the brakes which will further upset the cars balance.
Be safe out there!
Welcome to 2017!! I know most of us will be making resolutions to eat healthier, travel more, exercise more often, etc... Why not be different?! Make 2017 the best year for you and your vehicle with these 6 easy-to-commit-to resolutions. If your looking for more tips, give The Dyno Shop in Santee, CA a call anytime at 619-562-3933!
Stay on track with Regular Maintenance
If you were a bit lax about having regular maintenance performed on your vehicle in 2016, make your first resolution to stay on top of it. Having regular maintenance performed at the recommended intervals can save you money in the long run and could keep you from being stranded on the side of the road.
Keep your vehicle clean
This does not mean that you need to spend money on getting your vehicle professionally detailed every week. De-clutter, throw out the trash, and vacuum every month. I find it easy to keep my vehicle trash free when I keep a bag for trash in my Jeep. Don't forget about the outside! There are plenty of drive thru car washes around that are cheap.
No More Stress
Decide to chill out. Leave the house a bit early to give yourself time during your commute. This way you will not be stressed about time and will be able to have a more positive courteous attitude towards your fellow drivers. Not only is this great for your health, but also for your vehicles health. Less hard braking can lengthen brake life; less hard acceleration can increase gas mileage.
Give up texting and driving
We all know that texting and driving is extremely dangerous, let alone illegal in California. Make 2017 the year you save your life by quiting it! This will help you to be more attentive and courteous to other drivers by alleviating an unnecessary distraction.
Check your tires and wheels
Most of us take our tires for granted; having trust that they will always be there for us, taking us to and fro. Get into the habit of checking your tire pressure and condition monthly. Underflated, bald, cracked or torn tires can be disasterous.
It's a good idea to have your vehicle inspected twice a year by a trusted mechanic. Even if you are a do-it-yourselfer and really enjoy completing your oil changes, having a qualified profession inspect your vehicle could possibly catch something before it becomes a problem.
If you're anything like me, you are very busy on a day to day or even week to week basis. Checking my tire pressure is the last thing on my mind. Luckily for me this light turned on to let me know something was needing attention. As the temperatures finally drop a bit in San Diego, so does the air in your tires. The Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) is a warning system that warn's a vehicles operator that there is an unsafe change in pressure in one or more of the tires. The readings are provided by pressure sensing transmittors that are mounted inside each tire and sent to the ECU. TPMS was first available in about 20% of 2005 model vehicles (under 10,000 lbs). In model years 2007 or newer you 100% have TPMS.
If the TPMS light comes on, the first thing to do is check the air pressure in each tire. The recommended tire pressure can be found on a placard on the inside door panel. We do not recommend you using the pressure indicated on the sidewall of your tires, as that is the maximum inflation pressure for the tire itself, not the tire when used on your specific vehicle.
Your transmission’s vital parts get clogged with sludge and varnish deposits because, just like oil in your car’s engine, automatic transmission fluid (ATF) suffers from heat, friction and electrochemical degradation. In fact, nearly nine out of ten transmission failures are due to over heating and fluid contamination.
However, unlike oil, which can be completely drained from your car’s engine, most of the transmission fluid cannot be drained. Instead it stays in the torque converter, valve body and transmission cooler lines, making a complete fluid drain impossible.
Typical transmission service removes and replaces only 25% of your car’s contaminated automatic transmission fluid. Adding new fluid to the remaining contaminated fluid can actually cause sludge and varnish deposits to clog filter and further restrict flow. This can result in serious malfunction or even complete failure of your automatic transmission.
Now you have an option! Our transmission flush machine provides you with the latest service procedure that safely removes varnish and sludge deposits and cleans all internal transmission components, including the transmission cooler, valve body and torque converter. This service is also the best way to remove wear metals that are slowly grinding away on your transmission’s internal components along with most of the old, contaminated ATF. Your car’s transmission is thoroughly cleaned and protected with fresh ATF and conditioners that revitalize the seals and o-rings.
If your car’s transmission is showing any signs of contaminated transmission fluid, slippage, rough or hard shifting, this service is the first thing you should try before it becomes necessary to perform major repair work or even the need for a new transmission. Factory recommendation on most vehicles for a transmission fluid flush is 30,000 to 60,000 miles. Even if your vehicle is not showing signs of contamination, but the mileage is telling you it's time, don't wait! The biggest piece of advise we give is to have regular maintenance performed to keep your vehicle running stronger for longer (hopefully avoiding costly repairs).
This is what you want your ATF to look like. Give us a call today!
It has been a week since the time change of setting our clocks back and I'm still not jiving with it. The only positive that I get from this time change is that it's not dark when my kids wake me up before 6am. Over the summer I was lucky enough to buy a new-to-me car. I'd leave while the sun was up and get home before the sun set. So I rarely needed to drive with my headlights on. The other night I headed out around 5pm to run a quick errand. Not thinking much about the fact that it was already dark, but just that I forgot something for dinner at the store. Off I start to drive, turning on the headlights, and I cannot see more than 10 feet in front of me! My headlights, being of no use to me over wonderful summer, are pointing pretty straight down! The store is right around the corner from my house, so I wasn't too worried. I'm telling you about this because as I write blog posts about getting your vehicle ready for winter driving (not really different than summer driving here, haha) I've never really thought to include checking the position of your headlights. Most of us are commuting home from work when it's dark now and we need to be able to see! Here is a step by step guide to help you avoid what happened to me:
1. Make sure your vehicle is level. Remove heavy objects from the trunk or bed and park on as flat a surface as possible in front of a garage or wall
2. Turn your headlights on and mark the position of the beam on the wall. Mark the vertical and horizontal center line. The centerlines should not be any higher than 3.5' from the ground. Use a carpenters tape to verify the centerlines from each headlight are even. If one is higher, mover the higher mark down to the lower mark.
3. Back up the vehicle 25 ft from the wall.
4. Check your owner's manual to see if your vehicle has vertical and horizontal adjusting screws. If so, then find the screws and adjust one headlight at a time. Use a chair with a jacket on it to block the headlight that you are not adjusting.
5. Adjust the vertical field. The screw on the top of the housing should be turned clockwise to raise the light and counter clockwise to lower the light. Adjust the headlight until the top of the most intense part of the light beam shines directly on or just below the center of the tapeline on the wall. Make sure you turn the lights off to adjust then turn them on the view the adjustments.
6. Adjust the horizontal field. The screw on the side of the housing should be turned to get the right/left adjustment corrected. Try to aim the most intense part of the light beam just to the right of the vertical line.
Good luck!! Only 10 days until Thanksgiving! I love the feast.